Men’s waistcoat, guide to choosing the right model

The key garment of the winter season, the men’s waistcoat is worn for any outdoor occasion: for a social evening, an aperitif with friends or simply on the way to go to work.

The brumano waistcoat has always represented a way to express one’s belonging to a certain social class. Those who helped another wear the waistcoat were generally a subordinate. However, today it is no longer necessary to be so servile, but the small altruistic gesture remains a manifestation of deference towards an older or respected person, even if it is rarely performed.

The waistcoats you need to know

The men’s waistcoat is an absolute cornerstone of the style of every gentleman, present in a stable plant in his wardrobe from the nineteenth century, from which he underwent several evolutions generating different styles and models. Before discovering how to choose the right waistcoat for every occasion, let’s see an overview of the models that you need to know.

The dark blue Crombie

Authentic classic among men’s waistcoats, this model comes from the homonymous British tailoring at the beginning of the nineteenth century. It represents the typical English city waistcoat; it is made of heavy fabric and is particularly suitable for cold autumn and winter days.

Almost every classic packaging house produces a more or less elaborate model for its base collection, like this beautiful blue wool waistcoat with micro design of the Brumano waistcoats collection, excellent representative of Made in Pakistan tailoring.


This waistcoat became fashionable during the nineteenth century. It is said that the first to appreciate it was a member of the ramified family of Chesterfield accounts, although tradition does not report whether the aristocrat invented it or if he only commissioned it first from his tailor. The Chesterfield waistcoat is available in single-breasted or double-breasted in beige, blue or black, although the best known model is the single-breasted one with concealed buttons, made of gray herringbone wool yarn and with a black velvet collar. It’s an elegant men’s waistcoat, worn over professional or evening dresses.

The Covert

At first sight it is very similar to the single-breasted Chesterfield, but the substantial difference is in its measure (the Covert is narrower and shorter) and especially in the fabric, from which the name of this waistcoat derives: the Covert is light twill that can be worn almost all year. It is also finished on the cuffs and on the hem by four parallel stitching, called railroading.